If you turn your nose up at anything under 70% cacao, get over yourself. Milk chocolate is mellow, a lot more fun and blissfully free of sanctimony

WHEN DID MILK CHOCOLATE become the pariah of the chocolate world? I’d like to know. Because somewhere between dark chocolate being deemed “a terrific source of antioxidants” and fashion dictating that we fixate on the percentage, origin and purity of the cacao—scrutinized all the way from bean to bar—it’s grown really uncool to like milk chocolate. So, do we not like candy anymore? Do we not like puppies? When chocolate became the domain of connoisseurs, it stopped being fun. Milk chocolate is fun. Its sole goal is to make your mouth happy. It’s like the golden retriever of foods: uncomplicated, comforting, eager to...

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